Detailed Description ATB 2010 part 'B'

July 7th has been a long time in coming!  At your 4th of July gathering you showed friends and family the website of the "Around the Block 2010" trip and saw on the map the progress being made by team 'A'.

You dream about your part of the trip..... sort of like  this video! (This is a different moto rental company, but they go to many of the same places!)

It's Wednesday and it seems strange to be flying off to a distant land.  But as you arrive in Miami and meet your team members, it now seems the most natural thing in the world.  Your flight to Lima doesn't leave for 2 hours, so you have a chance to catch up with these long-time friends of your childhood...

Your flight arrives in Lima, and by the time you get thru immigrations, get your luggage and go thru customs, it is quite late.

Humberto meets you as you come out of customs.  You are fumbling to remember your Spanish, but he makes you feel very much at home as he guides you to the van waiting to take you to your hotel.


Hotel Antigua de Miraflores....  You sleep in (because you can!).  Not until you wake up do you notice this incredible colonial 'casona' converted into a wonderful hotel.. And the best part: your childhood friend, David Wroughton owns it!

You have all day here in Lima as your bus to Huanuco doesn't leave until 10pm!  It is theoretically 'winter' in Lima, but it's still fun to go down to the cliffs overlooking the ocean..  and it's only 3 blocks from your hotel!

Team 'A' , left Huancayo this morning en route to Huanuco and they should arrive there late this afternoon...

Humberto is back at the hotel around 9pm with your bus tickets in hand and a van to take you there.  He warns you to be somewhat careful in the La Victoria section of Lima at night.....

July 8th passes to July 9th sometime as you pass Ticlio.  Your bus arrives in Huanuco at 6am, where team 'A' are there to meet you and show your Hostal Huanuco. 

Early in the afternoon, the "Motociclistas X Cristo" from 'Mil Palmeras' church in Pucallpa begin arriving on their motos.  They will be joining us for the northern route (all of 'B' and the first part of 'C') of ATB.  We have a Pachamanca planned for tonight!  Then it's saying goodbye to team 'A' as they board their bus at 10pm.  But it's early to bed for us as we have a big day tomorrow...

Saturday, July 10th, we hit the road early (map). Breakfast will be on the trail, among the pre-incan ruins of Huanuco Viejo.  By noon we are at the top... over 16,000 ft above sea level!  From there we can see the snow covered Cordillera Huayhuash off to the north west.  That's where we are headed!

Early afternoon finds us eating a late lunch beside the Pastoruri Glacier.  If I recall correctly, class of '80 walked upon this during their Senior Trip!  We can't pass this way and not walk out on the glacier ourselves!  Come on!

The sun is low in the sky as we wind our way down west to Recuay, then north into Huaraz.  We will be staying at Hostal Albergue Churup, a hostel built like a small alpine village.  Sitting beside the fireplace of the great room, the view of the snow-covered Huascaran peak is AMAZING!

Sunday, July 11th.  Although this IS a rest day for us in Huaraz, tomorrow is going to be the hardest day of the whole trip, so to get a jump on it we are going to mosey on up the highway to Caraz in the afternoon (map).  We have reserved a great little place called Los Pinos Lodge.  This will shorten Monday's trek by 66 km at least....

Monday, July 12th we head out early (map).  This first part is called "El Canyon del Pato" video.  It is a labyrinth of switchbacks and tunnels through a rocky canyon,.... stark and beautiful (these moto guys on the video are WAY too overloaded!)  There is a reason we travel light and nimble.

We reach Chuquicara and turn away from the main road to follow the path taken by Simon Bolivar in his liberation of South America from the Spanish.  We follow the valley northeast as it climbs.  The road is narrow beside the river, rocky and solitary.  Most of the traffic takes the high paved route through Cabana, but the low route is faster (on a moto!)

There are many mines in this area, and that is the reason there is even a road!  Alot of culture (and poverty) up here in these mountains. Late afternoon, if we have time, before we enter Huamachuco, we should check out some great pre-incan ruins of Markahuamachuco just off of our road.

We will stay the night at Hostal Huamachuco, right on the Plaza de Armas.  Relax tonight.  Even tho tomorrow is a driving day, it is almost all asphalt and not too long.

Tuesday, July 13th, we head out without breakfast.  It's okay, we are stopping at Sausacocha first thing to have fresh fried trout for breakfast (map). !  I can tell you, there's no better way to start the day!

Our goal today is Cajamarca. At Cajabamba we hit pavement.  Legend has it that a great quantity of gold was being sent from the southern regions of Peru for the ransom of Inca Atahualpa in Cajamarca.  But when the couriers, upon reaching Cajabamba, found out that Atahualpa had finally been murdered, they buried the gold somewhere here in Cajabamba.

Cajamarca was the northern capital of the Inca Empire.  We are staying the two nights at "Los Balcones de la Recoleta".  This 19th century building has charismatic, rickety rooms surrounding a plant-filled courtyard.  Hot showers, cable TV, comfortable beds, and a small restaurant make it the perfect inn for our group.

During our "rest day" here we will take the opportunity to go out to the "Banos del Inca", a series of natural hot baths set with Incan stone work.  Nothing better for the aching muscles!

Thursday, July 15th.  This is always my favorite part; heading from the "sierra" down into the "montana", or the mountain jungle (map).  That is what today will be except that we will drop and climb 3 times... but we will finally be in warmer climes.

Leaving Cajamarca, and on past the baths, we climb a little, then drop down to Balsas on the river.  From there it is a climb up into the clouds and thru the pass called "Abra Barro Negro".  This is because of the humidity coming across the Amazon basin that "dumps" on the high pass.  Once we come out of the clouds, we can see the valley below and Leymebamba laid out north and south.  I wish we had more time; this valley has some incredible treasures southward.

If our arrival in Leymebamba is early enough, we will check out the famous museum full of Chachapoyan mummies found around the Laguna de los Condores (pix) a few hours south of here.  Heading north up the valley we soon pass the town of Chachapoyas and continue a few km on to the little town of San Juan.  The road tightly winds and winds up the side of the mountain until we arrive on a semi-flat area where the town is built.  We plan to stay at the new "Norton Rats/Chachapoyas" hostel.

Friday is for exploring.  But the only problem is that there is so much to see and only one day to do it in!  Of course there is the Gocta falls (3rd highest waterfall in the world), but that takes a 3 hr hike in to the base!  Then there is Kuelap, the huge pre-incan city perched on the side of a mountain.  The Chachapoya tribe were known as fierce fighters and referred to as the "cloud people".  Their civilization was from 800 AD to 1500 AD, and they held off the Inca for many decades.

Saturday, July 17th, is the ride to Moyobamba.  Which route we take will depend on if we are on schedule or not and if it has recently rained or not.  The sure route will be heading north out of Chachapoyas to meet the highway from the coast, then turning east.  This route is almost all paved and under 250 km.  The "adventurous route" (map) option will be heading east and south from Chachapoyas along gravel roads to Mendoza and Omia, then picking up the little known trail (only shown on some maps) northeast to Nuevo Horizonte and Soritor, meeting the west to east highway at Calzada, just a few minutes from Moyobamba.  The maps that do show this route designate it as 202 km long.

Next morning, Sunday, we will even have enough time for a leisurely breakfast and church, before we mount up for the 'afternoon stroll' 115 km down the pavement to Tarapoto (map).  Our friends on team 'C' will be arriving on the 10:00 pm flight from Lima.  We will arrive ahead of them, get settled in our quaint 'tipico' Hostal Patarashca, then all go out to the airport to receive them!

Tarapoto is a great place for a reunion!  Don't forget that many friends from Pucallpa are here too!  We all go out for some cecina y tacacho on the street.  Life is short, and rarely do you get to spend it with such friends as these!

Monday, the 19th of July.  After all you've seen and done in the last two weeks, you thot this day would never come....  But come evening, you will be saying good bye to everyone as you fly back to Lima!  Of course, Humberto will be there to meet you in Lima and get you to Hotel Antigua again.  You have until late tonight to get last minute shopping in.  You meet David and Julie Scott and Paul and Becky Nystrom for dinner there in Miraflores.

Before you know it you are back in the airport and flying home.  "Home".... such a strange word.... After the past 14 days, you are wondering again where "home" really is.....

Detailed Description ATB 2010 part 'A'

You've been dreaming of this for a long time!  Video has been playing in your head about what this might be like...

Let me give you a more vivid picture:  try this video! (This is another moto rental company, not ours... but the feel is the same!)

Coming from all parts of the US, you arrive in Miami and meet your team members around 2pm on Saturday, June 26th.  Your flight to Lima doesn't leave 'til 5pm, so you have a chance to catch up with these long-time friends of your childhood...

On the plane you try to catch some winks as you know this may be your only chance to get some sleep tonight.  Your flight arrives after midnight, and by the time you get thru immigrations, get your luggage and go thru customs, it is almost midnight.

Humberto meets you as you come out of customs.  You are fumbling to remember your Spanish, but he makes you feel very much at home as he guides you to the taxi to take us to our Hotel.  You crash.

In the morning, you have a leisurely breakfast, but soon you have to head out to the airport for your noon flight to Cuzco...

Your LIM-CUZ flight brings you to the reality and the excitement of this whole trip.  You may have been to Cuzco before, but not with these friends,... and not for a long time!  As the plane "drops" into Cuzco you get an idea of the majesty of the Andes that you will be conquering on moto and support vehicle!

Upon arriving in Cuzco, you DO remember that it is VERY IMPORTANT to GO SLOW!  It is a long walk to the baggage area, but you finally are there, greeted by the rest of the team who have gone on ahead to also see Machu Picchu.  "Let's get you to the hostel, get some hot coca tea in you, and put you to bed".  There are no Supermen/Superwomen at 11,800 ft above sea level!  Rest while your body gets acclimatized to the altitude.....

You wake up refreshed and ready to take on the world... SLOWLY!  Stepping out the front archway of our hostel "El Peregrino", you realize you are only steps away from the Plaza de Armas!  You needn't go far, you are in the very 'navel' of the Tawantisuyu (center of the world for the 16th century Incas).  Explore away, but don't eat yet, just drink and snack a little.

We will meet for an early supper at the Norton Rat's Tavern (a 'Round-the-World Motorcycle Travelers bar and grill with balconies overlooking the plaza), and review our trip. 

After supper we will walk over to "Peru Moto Tours" for last-minute prep of our motos.  Tomorrow will be a full day with some high altitude passes, so we head to bed early.

Monday morning, June 28th, you are up for a 6am breakfast, then it's "load up" time.  Southeast along the highway to San Jeronimo until we turn right towards Paruro and find ourselves on dirt roads, climbing, climbing, climbing  (map).

A short stop at Alfalfa Lookout to re-adjust gear and admire the fertile valley we have just climbed.  Then it is up to the first pass.  Stopping on the ridge, we can see the steep valleys on both sides at the same time, not to mention snow-capped mountains in three directions!  Then down, down, down, we make our way to Rondocan.  It is hard to believe that this is the route that the "Caminos del Inca" Auto Rally takes... at 3 times the speed we are going!

In the plaza of Acomayo, we stop and break out some lunch.  There is no flat spot in Acomayo, even the plaza is on an incline!  Continuing on we are soon down on a lake-covered pampa.  Past Laguna Azul, we drop off the pampa and quickly wind down to the Vilcanota River (that becomes the Urubamba River which flows eventually past Machu Picchu) beside the highway.  The backroads were nice, but we can make real time on the highway to Sicuani!

We need to gas up in Sicuani before we turn right; back onto dirt again and into the highlands.  The highlight of this part will be Lago Langui, a huge lake nestled between two mountain ranges.  An afternoon break there to enjoy the view, before we head over the ridge to El Descanso.  There we meet pavement, again, but this asphalt twists and turns across the pampa.  18 kms before we enter Yauri (Espinar), the road turns to dirt again.  Across the bridge into Yauri and up, up, up to the plaza on top of the city where our hacienda-like hostel 'El Jaguar' sits...

The inside courtyard makes a fine parking and maintenance area for our motos...

Today is June 29th, Dia de San Pedro.   On our ride today, we will drop into the Paruru Canyons and follow the far reaches of the upper Apurimac River. (map).. all the way to the source of the Amazon...  Well, not quite.  We will get within sight of it (the Mismi Volcano), as we ride along the foot of the mountain, only 10.6 km from the white-covered peak where the first rivulet of melted snow begins the mightiest river in the world.

The scenery is bleak, but beautiful.  This is when you realize how immense is this 'world on top of the world' !  We keep climbing out of canyons and dropping back into them.  At last we begin to parallel the beginning of the Colca Canyon as Chivay comes into view to our left on the far side.  Crossing the bridge, we pull up to the Hotel Colca Inn as the sun sets behind the Cordillera Negra.

Colca Day, June 30th!  Have you ever seen a condor soar on the updrafts of a valley?  Today you will!  In order to shorten our ride to the coast tomorrow (and not backtrack today), we will work our way west along the canyon (map), sight-seeing as we go.  Our goal today is just Cabanaconde, the "Home of the Condor".

As you travel along the rim of the Colca, the canyon gets deeper and deeper.  In 1981, the Colca River was navigated for the first time by Polish kayakers, and found to be twice the depth of the Grand Canyon!

We will stay the night at this great hostel called "Pachamama Home", run by European ex-pats who really know how to make you feel at home.  It is also a pizzeria where a wild time is had by all, whether backpacker, motorcyclist, or tourist! 

Enough of these mountains!  Let's go to the beach!  Skirting the rim of the Colca as it turns southwest, we ride towards Camana on the coast (map).  More and more green comes into view as we descend this valley.  We find a perfect spot under some Molle (black pepper) trees beside the river for our picnic lunch.  It's great to have the pickup truck along for these "niceties".

We climb back up onto a barren area and wind down to the dry, dry coast.  Sea level seems strange after the high passes we've been over.  We skirt a large sand dune and find ourselves in a green delta by the ocean that is Camana.  It's a little too late in the day for a swim, but we have all day tomorrow on the beach!

We will be staying just outside of town within sight of the beach in bungalos at Club Hotel Campestre Las Cabanas.

We will have the whole day to kick back, go to the beach (remember, the water is a little cold and the air will only be about 75 degrees), play some pool, but most of all eat some GREAT coastal Peruvian food!  Especially some Ceviche!  On the Las Cabanas website there are descriptions and pix of these scrumptious dishes....

July 3rd.  We head up the coast (map).  This is the most kms we will cover in a day, but it's all highway.  Even enough time to explore a little up the side of a sand dune or try to get down to a little hidden cove on the coast.  The road alternately stays beside the coast, then wanders away for a time.  Just enough to keep the boredom of the constant asphalt at bay.  Keep an eye out because this is where the sand dunes shift with the wind and cover the road.  You will come around a corner and there will be a front end loader clearing the road....

We arrive in Nazca, a desert town up on a plain beside the mysterious Nazca Lines.  Our hostel, just off the main plaza, is called the WalkOn Inn.  An ample colonial style home with interior patios and gardens, just behind the Cathedral.

July 4th at the Nazca Lines!  Sort of ironic that we would celebrate the anniversary of one of the world's youngest countries at one of the oldest monuments known.  Historians still don't know who made these incredible lines, miles long, delineating the shapes of monkeys, spiders, birds.

There is a tower from which you can see many of the lines, but the best option is to catch one of the small planes and fly over the lines.

July 5th finds us on our way continuing up the coast (map).  There is time to stop in Pisco and see the grape presses and perhaps savor some of the merchandise (video).  Cerro Azul today is our goal.  It is a quiet fishing village that became known to the surfing world in the '70's because of it's great waves.  Now it is a haven for surfers and travelers alike.

Our hostel is actually called "Hostal Cerro Azul".  From the terrace you can see the waves breaking.  The pier is right outside our front door!  Even the Beach Boys checked this place out!

What is there to do all 'rest' day in this little paradise?  Well, check out the video!

July 7th, while team 'B' is headed from their homes to Miami International Airport, we are headed back up into the Andes (map).  10 minutes back south, we turn up the Canete Valley shooting for Yauyos by lunch time. On this part of the trip you won't be going by the Boqueron... but we will check out these waterfalls!

This is like Cabanaconde to Camana... but backwards.  We climb, climb, climb.  The beginning is bad asphalt, but soon we are on crushed rock, criss-crossing the valley that climbs to Huancayo.  Our destination is over the cordillera negra and down onto the fertile green pampas.

At the end on this long incredible day, it will be good to kick back at 'La Casa del Abuelita", a place full of warmth and good fun.  And tonight we are going to "Caramba", a steak place with the feel of a friendly hacienda.

Today, July 8th, will be light, all asphalt, and mostly downhill.  But be careful!  This is an area with alot of dogs in each little town!

We find our way out of Huancayo and cruise through the lush basin, then follow the river in a slight climb (map).  We will bear off to the right and take the lower route thru Tarma, avoiding La Oroya.  Back up, and it is across the pampa we go!  Have you ever seen flamingos at 14,000 ft above sea level?

The sun is shining, but at this altitude it is still brisk as you drive along.  We have a favorite place to lunch at Carhuamayo, beside the lake.  Don't eat too much!

We soon are passing Cerro de Pasco and dropping down into the valley and the river that will lead us to Huanuco.  Our friends (from team 'B') will ride this tonight on the bus from Lima, and we will meet them early in the morning.  The wind picks up in the afternoon and traffic increases too.  This is where teamwork and our hand signals really come into play!

As we finish the last kms of our long 11 day ride and pull into the hotel, we are greeted by the group of riders from Pucallpa.  The 'Motociclistas para Cristo' from the Pucallpa 'Mil Palmeras' church are here as well as Yarina High School friends of old....

Today, July 9th, you will leave on the bus for Lima,... but not until 10pm.  There are alot of friendships to make and to renew after these many years.  But let's do it exploring on motos!  We double-up with team 'B' as passengers on the motos or in the pickups.

After a Pachamanca supper together, everyone says their goodbyes as you board the bus.  Team 'B' needs to get some sleep as their tomorrow will be long and high.  You (hopefully) will sleep on the bus.  Have you ever crossed Ticlio?  Maybe, but not quite in this comfort!

You get to Lima around 6am and you will have the whole day here in Lima.  I know you are tired,... but enjoy Lima!  You will be staying at David Wroughton's Hotel Antigua de Miraflores; a wonderful Spanish 'casona' on a quiet street only blocks from the ocean, but just until your early morning flight.  Check out the cool Lima video that features the hotel!

Late in the evening you find yourself back at Jorge Chavez International Airport.  Seems like yesterday you were just arriving here; but thinking about all that you have seen and experienced in 14 short days, it has seemed like a lifetime!

Who's ready?

This entry is to remind every one that I need to know who would really like to join "Around the Block 2010" so that I can start making arrangements accordingly...."

So... here's how I have laid it out:

by October 31st:
$50 non-refundable deposit saves you a place on the trip with your choice of trip section, moto, accommodations, priority for spots for non-riders in the support pickup, etc.  If you pull out later, your non-refundable deposit has already gone to set things up and will benefit your friends on the trip... and they all want to say: "Thanx!"  .

by December 30th:
-  a partial payment.  This payment will allow me to assure the moto and acomodations for you by putting down a deposit.

by Feb 28th:
-  a partial payment.  This payment will allow me to purchase the flights at the best possible price as this is "high season" for tourism to Peru.

by April 30th:
-  a partial payment.  This will allow me to pay in full the motos and make sure of the support vehicle and driver.

when you arrive in Peru:
-  whatever is left from the total.  This mostly goes to gas and lodging, so is not needed until you arrive on your portion of the trip.

I'm trying to make it cut-rate and easy payments because I know that probably you, like me, do not have this $$ in a savings account.  Look again at the costs (link) and you can see how low is the everything-included (except food, and that is VERY cheap) package for a full 16, 15, or 18 days!  The Dec 31st  payment CAN be refundable if another person joins in and takes your place/moto.  But once I buy the plane tickets (Feb 28th)... THAT I can't get back (or change the name).  These are the risks when you go cut-rate....

If you have a "child" between 16 and 22 (or even older), BRING them on this trip! It will be geared to the father-son, mother-son, father-daughter, and even mother-daughter.  We will be reading and discussing the "Wild at Heart" (boys) and "Captivating" (girls) as our devos on the trip and the time you will spend together (and in the company of your best friends of your youth) will be unforgetable!  "ATB 2007" changed my sons life, and I could not have fathomed the change beforehand...

This was really started by John Hocking taking his 17 yr old son Benji on a long moto ride thru Peru and Brazil back in 1988 (?).  When my son was "coming of age", I spoke to John about doing something similar and he said: "Do it!  I don't care if you can't afford it, or if you think you don't have time... Do it!  Morgage everything you have, quit your job or close your business if necessary, ..but Do it!  You will NEVER have this moment back again and your sons life depends on it..."

Sounds a bit like John Eldredge in his "Wild at Heart" books...  Thinking about it... what else is more important..?

So.... let me know.  Go out on a limb.  Join us.   Toby