Day 11 (July 6) Rest day in Cerro Azul

A DAY AT CERRO AZUL
     Pulled in shortly after dark from Nazca the day before.  Cerro Azul is a resort town, Peruvian style, on the coast.  As we found in Camana, it is almost completely devoid of tourists since this is the off season.  There were obvious signs of tourist hoardes, and the provisions for them, but it was almost as if we had the beach to ourselves.  There are huge rock formations where the surf has formed caves and crevices we could climb into to watch the waves come pounding in.  The crevice floors were made up of rolled rocks in all different colors ranging from green to red, to purple and all the hues in between.  These rocks would roll against each other making an almost deafening roar.  We had a lot of fun getting as deep into the crevice as possible without having the waves crash against us!  There were paths up the rock cliff sides so being the MK's we are, (even though we've lived in the very cautionary U.S. for many years), began to clamber up, higher and higher  making our way to the lighthouse.  Along the way we would peer over the cliffs at the surf roiling and crashing below on the rocks.  We had to duck as the sea birds tried to chase us from their nesting places.  It was an amazing view of the cove and of ancient village remains on the other side.
     For dinner that night we had a parrillada.  Jay Holcheck who is on Team A & B, with the help of others, purchased beef, fresh fish, little tiny potatoes, onions and aji amarillo to make skewers for grilling on an open fire right on the beach!  He also made a sauce to baste the skewers with while they were grilling.  And, there was roasted corn on the cob with an avocado sauce to spread on.
     Toby taked with us about some of God's character from Wild At Heart and we all went to bed with the sound of the waves, very blessed.
by Tina

Day 16 Huanuco to Huaraz

Incredable morning start, out of the Hostel gate by 7 15am, took the sceanic route through the city of Huanuco, and finally hit the open road....litterally!  Began with pavement, then pot holes,  gravel, and finally on to dirt and mud.  Single lane, goat trail narrow, switchbacks threaded our way up steep mountain sides, and with in seconds when you looked back, you were hundreds of feet above where you came from. 
Fringes of  Eucaliptus trees, lined the path, the fragrance filling the air, very up lifting.  George Manus drove like a pro, we were flying off road and having a blast (in the 4x4 rescue sweep truck)!  The view and sites along the way, impossible to describe adequately, mere words cant do justice to the majesty of Gods handywork. Even the pictures we took, pale in comparison to the real life experience.  Breath taking heights, at 17000feet, made you feel like you were on top of the world, until you glanced acrossed and saw the snow laced caps of Mt. Huascaran (22000 feet high), nestled in a puffy bank of cotton candy clouds.  You realize it is more incredible and you are not even close to the top of the world.  With nearly all feeling the effects of the hight, we quickly loaded up and dashed down to the valley.  Breathing much easier, initially the valley looked completely barren, till you came close, wondrous flowers blooming, cactus flourished and in bloom all over the place, again convienced that this is the most beautiful place I have ever seen.  Till we make the next turn....as the day began to close, light fading.  God blessed us with an incredible sunset!
Light fading from pink, to yellow and finally a brilliant orange as the sun sank behind hand carved mountain rang, as a crowning to the day.  Arrived at our Hostel Churup in Huaraz, to great beds and HOT water, the best accomodations we have had so far!

Just as we did with our riding gear, let's check off our other preparations for "Around the Block".......

PASSPORT:  Have you checked the expiration date?  I know you sent me a copy, but look at it again.  Will it expire while you are overseas?  They won't even let you board if so.  Have you signed it?  They won't let you do THAT at the airline counter!

TICKETS: Have you printed out a few copies of your USA-Peru e-ticket?  What about your in-Peru tickets?  I will have extra copies of all Peru connections for you at David's hotel in Lima,.. just in case.

LUGGAGE:  Have you checked the baggage allowance for your international flight?  Each airline is different these days!  This is what I recommend:  As carry-ons: your small backpack (Riders, I recommend AGAIN the 'Skyline 8.0' by 'Outdoor Products' at WallyWorld... with a drinking bladder too)  When you have to move thru the airports with all your luggage, it is helpful to have your hands free... therefore a backpack is the most practical.  Carry your helmet, they won't call it as an extra carry-on.

                 Bag size is limited!  A max of 62 inches (Length + Height + Width) for each bag.  How many bags?  Of what max weight?  Go to the airline website and check it out (and print it out!  There is a difference between the allowance for national and international flights!  If you are on the same airline from home all the way to Lima, then you get the international allowance even on the national flights.  But the person at the counter may not know that!  If you change airlines within the US, or have a day layover, you will only get the national allowance.)

                How much should I pack?  On these trips I have ALWAYS found that I always pack TOO MUCH!  Weed it out.  Then weed it out again.  Then weed it out one more time!  Every time we have a "rest" day there will be an opportunity to get clothes washed.. for quite cheap.  Riders, you will be in your riding gear ALL day, so a set of clothes that you only wear in the evenings to go out and get a meal will last you many, many days.  

                Remember 3 things:  (1) The baggage of 12 people need to go in this little pickup, with room for other supplies, 3 auxiliary seats for when folks want to ride in the back of the truck, and possibly a broken motorcycle (and YES, there is a small rack on the roof).  (2) On the flights within Peru, you will pay extra for any weight total over 25 kilos (55 lbs) per person.  It WILL be worth it if it is important stuff, but if not you will look foolish discarding stuff at the airport counter!  (3) Many of our hotel rooms will be 3 floors up with NO elevator.  Make your bags smallish, made to also go over your shoulder, and with wheels if possible.

GEAR: Have you got it all?  If you wait 'til the last minute, it may come the wrong size, and there will not be time to exchange it.  Have you worn your new boots to break them in?  You don't have to go riding, just wear them around the house and the garden!

            Have you tried that helmet on?  With the balaclava under it?  For an hour at least?  Find out where the stress points are on your head, and take care of them by carving on the foam under the lining.

HEALTH:  Be in the best shape possible for this trip.  Diet if you will, but don't weaken yourself dieting.  DO build up your strength and stamina.  This is NOT a "ride in the park"!  Or, as I often vent on the 'Round-the-World' moto riders' blogsites to guys who brag that they have ridden a "motorcycle" from the USA to Tierra del Fuego: "Try riding REAL roads, instead of doing a @#$%^ Sunday cruise down the Panamerican Highway!"

             The altitude will beat you up if you are not prepared for it.  Check with your doctor if any of your meds will affect you differently at altitude.  Don't run yourself ragged the days before the trip, then expect to "catch up" on this "vacation".  It will catch up with you!  The trip will be SO much more enjoyable, comfortable, and exhilarating if you are in shape!.....

Sooo Many Questions!

Many of you have been emailing an FBing me with the same questions, so I thot I would answer as many as possible (plus a few others) here....

(1)  What form of $$ do I need to take to Peru for this trip?

A - You don't have to "bring" $$ because you can use any ATM in Peru to just access your account and fees are similar to ATMs in USA. The only thing is that they limit you to $400/day which is not a problem for the likes of us "shoestring" travelers!

(2) How much $$ will I need for food?

A - Well, some hotels will give us breakfast with our rooms. During the day we will only snack (it is much better to travel at altitude with a not-so-full stomach).  Our only big meal will be supper. So about $15 per day for food should be plenty.

(3) Any other $$ needs?

A - Well, besides any purchases you want to make, or entry into parks, museums, etc. during our "rest" days, the only other thing should be airport exit taxes.. There will be a $7 airport tax for each flight WITHIN the country. When you fly Lima to the States, there will be an airport exit tax of about $30. These are NOT included in the airfare or the "cost" of the trip.

(4)  Do I need any shots or a visa for Peru?

A - Nope.  Neither.  Only turists traveling to the Northern jungle around Iquitos need a Yellow Fever shot.  You SHOULD be up on your tetnus tho... just in case (NOT required by Peru, but a good idea!)  When you arrive at the airport in Lima they will automatically give you up to a 90 day tourist visa.

(5)  What about my tickets?

A - I sent you email copies of your tickets if I purchased them for you.  I will also have printout copies waiting for you at the hotel in Lima. Pick them up before you leave the hotel.  Humberto will see you to the airport and help you check in every time..

(6) Any other "words to the wise"?

A - YES.  You scanned a copy of your passport and sent it to me.  I printed off 2 copies and sealed them in plastic.  That is good enough to carry when you are shopping or touring around should you have to show any identification.  If you get something stolen, I would rather them not get your passport.  We will keep them in a safe place and move around with only the copy.  We will only have to show the ACTUAL passport at the airport and MAYBE at a police checkpoint along the route.  For your trip down to Peru it would be good to have a simple photocopy IN CASE something happens before you get to Peru.  At least you will have the important info to show a consulate!

Also, DO NOT use a purse or a wallet.  I carry an 79 cent(from Walmart) credit card wallet insert deep in my right front pocket for my cards, and a small clip of cash deep in my left front pocket with my passport.  The rest of my personal things go in a small kangaroo pouch IN FRONT of me with tickets, meds, small camera, etc.  I only carry in my small backpack (my carry-on) what I can afford to lose (video camera, reading book, pillow, extra set of clothes).  You will often get out of your pack or set down your carry-on and it COULD get left behind or stolen.  Why do I carry an extra set of clothes in my carry-on?  Very possibly your bags may not catch up to you for another day or two... so be prepared to NOT MAKE IT AN EMERGENCY. 

BE prepared, NOT worried.
BE careful, NOT suspicious.
BE friendly, NOT gullible.
and as President Reagan would say:  TRUST, BUT VERIFY.

Toby

Rider Equipment Check-off List

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Riders, here's your GEAR check-off list to make sure you haven't forgotten anything!  Also; if you don't plan on using this gear when you return home, we have a "deal" with the Pucallpa riders that they will purchase our slightly used gear from us at 75% of purchase price as long as it is not the expensive stuff.

Let's start at the head and work down...

❐ Helmet - make sure it is comfortable.  If not, pad it or carve it inside.  Wear it around the house to see where the stress points are, then correct them.  Don't wait for the first days ride to find these things out.

❐ Goggles - If you have an MX style helmet (which I recommend), then make sure you have goggles.  Inexpensive, good ones are linked on the GEAR blog entry .  Make sure you have either a shaded or a self-adjusting lense for it as there will be alot of bright sun and glare.  A clear lens too for early morning, late afternoon.  I just buy 2 goggles and change at rest stops.

❐ Balaclava - This is a thin head underarmor that goes on under the helmet, just leaving the eye area free.  This gives you a little extra warmth when needed, yet you still get air flow.  Make sure you have one, and make sure that it does not have a seam across the middle of you head.  When the helmet presses against it, you will think you are in a Chinese torture chamber.  Change it or carve a ditch in the styro inside your helmet to account for it!

❐ Neck warmer - Not absolutely necessary if you have a fleece that zips up high on you neck.  Don't bring a heavy, bulky one!  It's nice to be able to look down!

❐ Under Armor - Upper: Get the inexpensive one(s) at Walmart.  Two is good.  Long sleeve for 'A'.  Both long and short sleeve for either 'B' or 'C'.  This will be your #1 piece of clothing on the whole trip.  It should be snug (yet not tight), and VERY comfortable.  Try them on at the store, don't go by labeled sizes.  YES, they go against your skin.

❐ Cotton long and short sleeve shirts worn under riding jacket during sunny weather.

❐ Fleece:  It should be tight-fitting as it needs to fit comfortably under the jacket.  Recommend it zip up to a high neck.

❐ Riding Jacket:  This MUST breathe and MUST have shoulder and elbow armor incorporated.  If not, you can get strap-on ones which will work as long there is room enough under jacket.

❐ Gloves:  Cold weather gloves for 'A', warm and cold weather gloves for 'B' and 'C'.  These MUST be moto gloves, NOT regular winter gloves as they bunch up when you grip the handlebars.  For "warm" weather, just inexpensive MX gloves are great... don't pay more than $18... many, many sales around.  Cold weather gloves may be on sale right now.  Best ones have a removeable inner glove you can use when cool, or not when not so cold.  Can be expensive, look for sales...

❐ Underarmor Pants: Get the padded ones (padded where you sit, not so much around the rest).  These can get expensive.  You can live with just one pair.  'B' and 'C' should consider one pair of short padded underarmor too.

❐ Socks.  Tall ones that make your boots comfortable, and also cover the calf where the knee-shin guards will be straped on.  If you are using MX boots, make sure you get tall MX socks.  2 pair each.. at least.

❐ Boots.  Break them in!

❐ Knee-Shin Guards.  Only about $10 for the basic ones, but your life will not be the same from a simple low-speed fall to your knee if you don't have them!

❐ Riding Pants.  Must breathe and protect against abrasions.  Needs to be comfortable in sitting position.  If you are using the MX boots, I recommend the over-the-boot style pants, as they make you look less from outer space!  On that note: the least graphics possible on your riding gear, the better.  We are travelling thru some very humble, rural areas..

❐ Kidney Belt.  Get one!

❐ Not required, but I recommend a small backpack with an incorporated "camelbak" style bladder.  VERY good, yet inexpensive one can be gotten at WalMart.  Backpack is by Outdoor Products and called a "Skyline 8.0".  Bladders are sold right there too.  You don't need the brand name stuff.  You WILL want a small comfortable backpack to ride with...

❐ Rain Gear:  It is dry season, but rain CAN crop up unexpectedly.  They also are good for cutting wind for short periods of time.  Buy light-weight jacket and pants,but not so flimsy that the wind shreds them.  Walmart has a decent set for only $10.88.  On sizes:  Remember that they go OVER all your gear, so make sure they are plenty big!

More details of all these gear items (and the reasons for them) are on this blog, just scroll down until you find it.  Ask your questions HERE (via "comments"), so that others can learn from the answers!

Some Riding Rules

In each group of riders, two of them will do Lead and Sweep. The motos go first as they are faster than the truck.  The rules are:

If you can't see the moto behind you, you are too far ahead... slow down or stop until he catches up or you can see him.  If after 5 minutes he doesn't arrive, then return until you find him.  When you come to a 'Y' in the road or anywhere there are two or more options, STOP.  When the following moto arrives at that point, take off in the correct direction.  The following moto must wait for the one following him, and so on.  The motos between Lead and Sweep may switch places or ride together, but never get ahead of Lead or behind Sweep.  There will be pre-agreed upon stops for rest and/or food breaks where the Lead moto stops and all catch up, even the truck.

Lead moto must have map and/or GPS, know what the road ahead is, what each turn-off means, and when and where we have determined to stop.  I have very good road maps and carry a GPS with 10 to 20 points pre-located via Google Earth coordinates per day of travel.

Sweep is the last moto, stopping when coming upon any rider fallen, ill, or with moto problems.  Sweep will carry a few tools, tire patch kit, and some First Aid supplies.  He will wait with problem until truck arrives and load rider and moto.  Yes, the one ahead of sweep will stop when he no longer sees Sweep, eventually stopping all the others.  There will be rough roads where the truck will be quite a ways behind, and we will pre-decide how much the motos can get ahead of the truck before stopping and waiting.

At a few points, the motos will take a different route (rougher and/or more adventurous, ie: a short-cut) than the truck, to join again at a pre-determined spot.  During that interval, sweep will carry extra First Aid supplies, a tow strap, and tie-down ratchet straps (should we decide to hire a pickup that comes along to haul a moto and rider hurt, ill, or broken down, to where our truck will meet us).  We will also have a cell phone with the motos and one with the truck.  At altitude it is pretty incredible the coverage of a cheap cell phone....

Every evening, the Lead, Sweep, and truck driver will meet to go over the ride for the following day and coordinate pre-arranged stopping points, etc.

There are many more "Rules of Riding" I will instruct everyone on (with reminders along the way) at the beginning of each section.  These rules have been proven to work, keep communication clear, and create safety among the team.  There are no "cowboys" on these rides.  The rides will be breath-taking and inspiring.  They can also be dangerous if we do not work as a team.  These "rules" have been developed by your Peruvian and MK friends over many, many rides, some with near escapes.  Please determine to respect them or please do not come on this ride!


Toby

Our GPS Transmitter has Arrived!!

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Our GPS transmitter has arrived and I've been testing it out.  One of it's functions is to emit a signal every 10 minutes that is picked up by the SPOT company and it is automatically logged on to a Google Map which any of you can monitor (having the password).  This is the link.  Email me ( aroundtheblock07@gmail.com ) to get the password.  Feel free to tell other Peru friends the password, but DO NOT put it in writing PLEASE!  Our safety may depend on it.... (Note: The password is what they call you in Peru when you are a foreigner by blood, but have "gone native".. )

Another function of it is that the press of the "SOS" button can call Search and Rescue anywhere in the world, known also as Emergency Evacuation.  This service covers all medical and evacuation needs of the first 72 hours after the call.  The cost is only $16.95 per person for this trip.  This is not your regular travel insurance, it is Emergency Medical Evacuation and treatment that can extract you out of the middle of the jungle or off some Andean trail.  I think we should all consider this...