Sunday, September 27, 2009

Riding Gear

Hornet DS Sonora Helmet
This is an excerpt from an email by Gary Rich, asking what gear he and son Theo would need for "Around the Block 2009" (now "Around the Block 2010"). I responded in detail (with links) and I do believe it will help those of you going on this trip. Remember that every "part" ('A', 'B', or 'C') of this ride will have some time in the Andes (especially 'A' and 'B'), so you WILL need the cold gear!


Gary: "I was wondering how much you ended up spending on all your supplies that you took down (gear, supplies, what-not) We already have motocross boots, helmets, goggles, pants, jerseys and gloves. What else did you take or recommend?"
Toby: "So you already have all the basic MX stuff, but let me start at the toes and go to the head, for Andes crossing AND for jungle riding. I will attach hyperlinks for each item (usually to less expensive sites like Dennis Kirk or Rocky Mountain ).
Keep in mind that on a long trip like this you are very likely to fall at least once. Even on the 12 day loop that the "Mil Palmeras" group did in 2007(in accompanying Luke and I to Cuzco, then back to Pucallpa via Nazca and Lima) there were a few falls. Luke fell 5 times on our long trip (Around the Block 2007), yet the worst he hurt himself (even in falling off the bridge) was a small bruise on his back. That is because we had the right gear, head to toe, even in the sweltering heat of the lower jungle..... Rocky Mountain has a new line of good, but VERY economical gear called ARC. In fact the goggles ARE Scott goggles, just under a lesser name and all the lenses are interchangeable.
Feet: Motocross Boots ABSOLUTELY! We had NO twisted ankles despite everything. Luke and I did not own any MX gear here in the US, (we had given everything away in Peru) so we went "new, but the least expensive" We went with the ARC atv boots as they have better grip soles than the MX ones (for pushing in mud). The difference is that you have to lift your foot to get it off the peg. They are only $80 for new (and fairly comfortable) boots. Luke preferred a tighter fit using thinner soccer socks, but I preferred looser with the ARC MX socks

Shins/Knees: Don't go anywhere without knee guards! They are even useful to kneel while working on the bike, especially in rocks. We used the $10 ones with elastic and Velcro around your calf. ARC Knee/Shin guard We did not user MX pants (for varoius reasons) so we did not use the slide-in MX type of shin guard.

Pants: Many of the other riders from Pucallpa used MX pants because that is what they had that would be comfortable with the MX boots, but that type of pant had disadvantages. I think Luke and I chose correctly for a trip like this for various reasons: (1) An "over-the-boot" style because (a) We wanted to look "not so strange" around town, so a covered boot doesn't draw so much attention. (b) We wanted to shed water (and dirt) OUT of our boots. (2) We also chose a "ventilated" pant so that we could control our body temperature. It even worked great high up in the Andes. (3) We also chose a pant that unzipped above the knee, turning it into shorts. In the hot weather, whenever we stopped for more than 15 minutes (meals, etc) we would take off our boots, shin guards, and lower pants and we were cool enough without changing. (4) We also wanted something with pockets (like license, moto papers, and a little money), but not up near the hips where in a fall something in the pocket could bruise your leg.
So we chose:Shift Recon Pants There are many other with all the same features, but these were on liquidation for 1/2 price.
Under-Armor: The only way to go! With Under-Armor, you control your "monkey-butt" and it is the most comfortable way to go. We had one set of shorts/short sleeve shirt for the heat, and one set of long leg/long sleeve for the cold. They can be washed by hand at night and will dry almost immediately, and they take up virtually no room in your luggage. They are also like a "full-body" kidney belt for those of us who are not as "rock-solid" as we once were. I think it cuts down on full body exhaustion. ARC Padded Riding Shorts shorts and Answer Long Under Armor long leg. The tops we just got at WalMart for very cheap.
Kidney Belt: Any, as long as it is narrow in the front and doesn't bunch up.

Upper Body Protection: Most of the guys went with all their stuff on and then loosened up their body armor and put it on the outside of everything (including coat!), but that can look strange to campesinos and is uncomfortable with so many layers under the armor. Then you still don't have any protection on your elbows. Luke and I think we came up with a better idea. We went to the Street catalog of Dennis Kirk and looked for a jacket that had incorporated hard shoulder and elbow protection. Surprisingly, we came up with a Shift street jacket that matched, had everything we needed, AND was inexpensive: Shift Airborne Jacket The pads are removeable, and all is washable.
For a longer trip than the 2-week "Around the Block 2010" portion (and because I probably don't bounce as well as I used to in a crash), I would go with an incorporated kidney belt/backbone protector. There are some really comfortable ones and always something is on sale.
Gloves: For regular riding, even at high altitude (if the sun is shining), a ventilated MX glove is the best. We found sales for $4.99 a pair, so not a big deal. When it did get cold at high altitudes, we, being from Maine, were prepared with some winter riding gloves. You don't want just some regular outside winter gloves. You want something that is thin in the palm, yet padded for warmth on the outside. We found some really cool ones, on sale, made by ICON that had all that AND had plastic protection on the knuckles in case of a fall. They also had an Under Armor-like soft glove on the inside that was removable, and that was very practical. And best of all, they are made clenched so that you don't have bunched up extra material when you clamp your hands down on the handlebars.
Helmet: Luke and I, on our long trip, drove over 10,000 km, four times over the Andes, through hour after hour of rain, and I will still use an MX style helmet with goggles... for various reasons: (1) We found that air flow over your body is VERY important, especially to the head. Was it ever cold? Not that I remember. When it was, we used an inexpensive Under Armor thin balaclava, so really there is no skin exposed. With the MX style helmet, you have a sun visor (make sure it is WELL ventilated) and you can change goggles from clear to shaded when needed. With goggles there is no steaming up the inside of your lens and you don't overheat. This is NOT to say I would go with and "open face" type of helmet. Keep in mind that a heavier helmet tires the neck when there are alot of bumps...

There are some very cool (and very expensive) full-face helmets (made by ARAI and also by 2 European companies that look pretty much like an MX helmet, but also have a shield that pivots and hides up under the visor...
Goggles: We found the ARC Corona Goggle It is really a SCOTT 89 goggle, but for only $12.99. So we got 2 each, one clear, and one with a light-sensative lens.
High Altitude Wear: For our legs we had simple "long-johns", which we rarely even used. It seems that the legs, being protected from the wind by the tall boots and knee guards, and by the pack strapped to the tank, never got cold. The long Under Armor and the ventilated pant was enough. On top of the long-sleeved Under Armor, (and under the Shift Jacket) I would at times put a fleece with the neck zipped all the way up. Twice I used a neck warmer over that, but it was bulky.
We found that layers that could be added or taken off were the key. We would ride with only Under Armor even if we were sightly cold. It kept you comfortable, alert and alive. If it became uncomfortably cold, we would add one thing until that edge was just barely solved, and continue. When we no longer felt that edge of freshness, we would take something off. And so on.... The body MUST breath! This does require much liquid tho or the "freshness" will dehydrate you. Back "in the day" we would use plastic all over our bodies to stay warm, but it was clingy, uncomfortable, and you soaked with sweat. Then when you stopped, the wetness froze you!
In the event of piercing cold (like the day beside Titicaca), we would put on our rain gear OVER everything and cut the wind, but that was just a stop-gap to finish the day. I wouldn't ride long like that.
Remember that we will be handing off the motos to the next person for the next leg of the trip, so there is no reason that we cannot also hand off riding gear and share the cost. The "hand-off" always occurs on a rest day where things can be washed and cleaned. I would keep my own Under Armor and helmet, but any of the rest I'd have no problem sharing. Luke and I sold most of our gear to the Pucallpa guys upon leaving, but kept our outer SHIFT riding gear.

NOTE: There is always the possibility of selling your gear to the riders from Pucallpa for 70% of what you paid, after the trip (or 100% if you got it on sale), so you can re-coup some of your $$ if you don't ride regularly in the US.

"Non-Riders": (those riding in the support vehicle) who will be "double-upping" on the motos during the "rest" day to tour around, DO need a few things... Don't worry about bringing a helmet (unless you have a "non-regular" sized head, youth or XXL, or extreemly like a helmet you DO have), as the moto rental company will be supplying an extra helmet per each moto. But make sure you bring a fleece and "over-the-ankle" type shoes to ride with. The only other thing I would "recommend" would be inexpensive knee and elbow guards, just in case of a fall. Kids can even use skateboard kids knee/elbow ones. It's not much hassle, and knees and elbows are the first things to hit the ground, even in a small fall.

I hope this answers most of your questions. As we get closer, I will let everyone know (NOT on this site), who is riding before and/or after you to coordinate equipment sharing. For helmet sharing, go to the Dennis Kirk catalog and look at the helmet sizing charts. Not all helmets size things the same.... just a word of warning.. you WANT to be COMFORTABLE!

Monday, August 10, 2009

Cuzco to Colca Canyon Survey (Back North to Cuzco)




Yes, we are back safe in Cuzco... and I have learned ALOT! Mostly where (and where NOT) to go on ATB 2010!
We left off in Yauri (it´s also called Espinar, but I like the Quechua better.... Yauri is quite cold this time of year... and with no heat in any of the buildings, yu just can´t get warm except with a hpt shower, or standing in the sun at noon! We ended up staying at the Hotel Plaza Espinar, a 3-star hotel by someone´s warped imagination. We asked for a "matrimonial" (it being our silver aniv.), so they put us on the 5th floor! It is already 12,300 ft above sea level... we didn´t need the extra 50 feet! But the shower WAS hot...





Yauri is not a pretty town/city, but does have some redeeming aspects. The indoor market is smell-free and AMAZINGLY clean! We had breakfast there before our return trip... Sara - Lamb soup... I - fried trout.... both excellent! I surprised Sara´s deriere by purchasing a full sheep´s skin to add to the moto seat. It also made us look a little more like the "rugid traveler"!

On this return trip we planned to go directly from El Descanso to Yanaoca. We had (what we thot to be) a good map made by Toyota, circa 2007. NEVER trust a map. What SHOULD have been 45 min turned out to be over 4 hours! This road follows along the top of a ridge and the views were haunting. We saw 2 other vehicles ALL afternoon. We began to become worried...

At sunset, we wound down into a town which we thot was Yanaoca, but really was Quehue. Thank God they had gasoline as we were "running on empty". The people told us that Yanaoca was only 20 min further, 45 at the most. 2 hours later, and very beat up we rolled into Yanaoca. NOT a nice place, but we finally found a little room and decided just to sleep dirty and head out the next day early. We will NOT be going this way on ATB 2010!


We did get off by 8 the next morning, and, HALELLUJAH (sp?), it was all pavement from there! Alex, the moto rental guy did not believe that Sara had made it the whole way! He had sworn that she would be returning by bus, not in the saddle! Oh! how nice to get back to showers and a clean bed at Norton Rats!

It being Sara's B-Day, I treated her to a makeover, then dinner. We tried an Irish Pub called "O'Gradeys"... the food was OK, but not the atmosphere we were hoping for.. In the morning (before our noon flight) we had arranged for side by side, full body massages, to complete our Silver Aniv. A MUST for those who finish up in Cuzco! I think I will try to find something similar for the groups in each ending city (Huanuco, Tarapoto, Cuzco).

So... MUCH learned. I have chosen the best and most beautiful of the routes we discovered for the first 2 days of our ride, written down distances, hostels to spend the night, places to stop and enjoy the beauty of God's creation.... IN all,... VERY worthwhile. I am VERY happy with the quality and attention of the moto rental company, and I think I made a friend too. The motos are quite new and well maintained. At the moment he does not have any XR400's, but hopes to buy 4 new ones as soon as they arrive in January...

I purchased some new maps... (YES, AFTER the trip!) and will scan them when I get a chance, so you that are "following" will get a second reminder. It makes it much easier when you can SEE the towns and routes being talked about!

Saturday, August 8, 2009

Cuzco to Colca Canyon Survey (Heading South)

Don´t mean to disappoint you...but things have not all worked as expected.... I´ll start at the beginning...

Please don´t shoot me as there are no pix as of yet, but you will get another reminder when I load the pictures... you see, I left the camera USB cable back in Cuzco....

We arrived in Cuzco VERY early on Aug 5th. First things first: DON´T take the 5:00 AM flight.. it throws your whole body out of whack for the altitude... We went right to Norton Rat´s new hotelsito and crashed.... It is VERY nice... perhaps a little TOO at $40 a night for a double... I´ll see what I can do for next summer.. group rate and such....

´Bout noon I went out to meet Alejandro at MotoToursPeru. I was amazed at the number and quality of the motos he has... about 20 in total.. so we should have no problem, each choosing which fits her/him best. Alex was good to work with, and I asked him for a Honda XR650L for the little survey trip Sara and I were to begin the next day...

Things took longer than expected to pack, suit up and load up, so we were not gone from Cuzco ´til 10:20 am. We headed down the pavement towards Cuzco for about 20 min to San Jeronimo, then turned south on a little rocky road towards Paruro (no, it´s not on the map).. WOW! In only 15 km we were some 2,000 ft higher than Cuzco, with such incredible views! Craig, if we thot Huancayo to Ayacucho was incredible... this triples it!

Although we had pared our luggage back to only one change of clothes, tools and tubes, we were quite loaded, even for the 650.. Think "Support Vehicle" for ATB 2010 ! Sara was half on the seat and half on the rear tool pack (filled with soft clothing) and we needed to stop every 40 min or
so to rest and walk. Needless to say we did not make the Kms we had hoped the first day, but we did find some cool roads, in great condition, over looking multiple valleys thousands of feet below, and almost all void of traffic!

We found ourselves (without intending to..) riding the route that the "Caminos del Inca" 10-day Rally race covers.. roads are good, but one lane and NO GUARD RAILS ! The first night found us in Acomayo. This little Andean town is very basic, yet spotless, and the people are so honest. We found a little Hostal MonteCarlo that was perfect for $10 for the night. The Hot water was out, but they sent buckets of heated water to our room. The plan of the first day´s ride of ATB 2010 is to get to Yauri, but if things don´t work out, this is a great little fall-back overnight place!

Early the next day I made a few adjustments of seat and pegs for Sara´s comfort, and raised the shift level for me. We found pavement leaving


Acomayo for a sweet little ride past la Laguna Azul and out to the highway again and down to Sicuani. A little lunch there, then we headed south and east towards Langui and the lake there. After 10 km of pavement, it was dirt again, but it was less than an hour to the lake. We spent 2 hours laying on the turf bank beside the lake. We renewed our vows (this is our 25th aniv.) by singing them to each other, then split a Sublime to seal the deal...

After that we wandered into town, looked around for a hostel... but there were none.. they said that the Catholic church there sometines put up visitors, but the preist was away. They did serve us coffee and tea and wish us well tho..

So, we "hit the road" (literally, as Sara puts it). It is not heaven for me either sitting as far forward as possible and not being able to stretch, or slide back and forth on the seat (this is why we don´t ride 2-up!), so I would cranp up and have to stop and get off and walk off the cramp.. When you are riding alone, you can easily stand, stretch, slide, and do circus acts on the seat to keep limber without having to stop (and it makes it more fun too!).

45 more min on dirt, up and over the ridge to El Descanso. From there to Yauri, it was all pavement.... But as it was past 4 pm, the sun was weak and the winds had kicked up... On the upper Puna, when the sun is not overhead... there is little warmth. Thankfully, we made Yauri by 5:15 pm, still by daylight...

Yauri is not much to look at, but there are warm beds and NICE HOT WATER! I do believe, that with an early start, rests along the way, and no un-expected hold-ups, we can, on ATB 2010, make Yauri the first day. But it is good to know that there are places we can "fall back to" should things not go as hoped (like with us...)...




Maps to come......